747 live How Chablis Winemakers Are Fighting Back Against Climate Change

Good Chablis is the most distinctive chardonnay wine in the world. I’ve long been convinced of this, and a wine I drank on a recent visit to Chablis reaffirmed my conviction.

It was a 2015 Montée de Tonnerre from William Fèvre, one of Chablis’s best producers. The wine was saline and stony, like drinking liquid seashells. It may sound strange, but it makes sense given that the best Chablis vineyards have Kimmeridgian limestone bedrock and soils, composed partly of fossilized shellfish.

Chardonnay is the world’s most popular wine grape, grown almost anywhere that people make wine. Great chardonnays abound, including some reasonable approximations of the best white Burgundies from the Côte de Beaune, the heart of white Burgundy production. But never have I had a chardonnay that remotely tasted like Chablis, despite claims from wineries worldwide that their wines were “Chablis-like.”

What gives Chablis that singular underlying mineral tang that tastes like no other wine? It’s partly those soils, but also the entirety of its terroir. Chablis is the northernmost part of Burgundy, about 90 miles northwest of the primary white Burgundy regions, on the jagged edge of where, historically,fhm63 games chardonnay could grow.

There, the geology, climate, topography and the beliefs and practices of Chablis’s vignerons combined to produce this remarkable wine. It’s been a fragile equation for decades, as, for much of the 20th century, vignerons struggled to ripen their grapes sufficiently to soften the sharp angles of a wine that could easily be all elbows and knees.

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Robinson’s history of comments that have been widely criticized as antisemitic and anti-gay made him a deeply polarizing figure in North Carolina long before his bid for governor was upended last week by a CNN report that he had called himself a “Black NAZI” and praised slavery while posting on a pornographic website between 2008 and 2012. Now, some of his allies are abandoning him. Most of his senior campaign staff members have resigned. The Republican Governors Association said that its pro-Robinson ads would expire tomorrow and that no new ones had been placed. And former President Donald Trump, who endorsed Robinson in the spring, calling him “Martin Luther King on steroids,” did not mention him once during his rally in the state over the weekend.

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